![]() ![]() I have battery switches for inverter, thruster, house and start also, and a load coil that allows all batteries to be connected momentarily (parallel) - but those are “after” the alt charging so I assume they would have no effect on the alt charging.Īppreciate any ideas or experience and I also appreciate this forum. Also, once I put a new 200 amp isolator in - do I need the Battery Combiner? The Combiner seems like it is redundant and just adds another level of complexity I do not need. Two questions: is it likely I fried the 120 amp isolator with the 105/130 amp alternator ( I understand these do not fail often?). I also had to disconnect the Magnum Energy Smart Battery Combiner due to bolting the alt output positive to the two battery bank cables. Ultimately bypassed the Mastervolt Battery Mate 1602ig isolator (that is specked at 120 amp continuous) and all works fine. ![]() For example, my boat is set up with no isolator, and all charge sources go to the house bank. A lot depends on your personal preferences. Had alternator tested - the 105 amp alt tested to 130 amps. You could also tie the solar and house charge inputs just to the house bank, and let the alternator charge the start battery when its running. Had a bad alternator when I got to it in RI, replaced with new and then 25 hours running the charging system failed. If I ever need the 2nd battery to start the engine in an emergency I can just switch the cables in about a minute.Hi all, I am new to the forum - great information!!! I just picked up a 2008 Flower 36 ( Moxie- its original name when built for a guy out of Boothbay Harbor - I think) in RI and ran it to Harpswell, Maine. I had an isolator on my previous boat too. The isolator has wprked great for me and has given me no problems. Battery 2 is a deep cycle that runs the trolling motor, fishfinder, and radio. I can troll all day and know my starting battery will work. Battery 1 is the starting battery and also runs the nav/anchor lights, and bilge pump. I don't have to remember to switch a switch like my dad has to do. The thing i like about it is that it charges both batteries when running the engine, but won't run down the starting battery when trolling or using the radio and is totally automatic. Battery 1 is the starting battery and also runs the nav/anchor lights, and bilge pump. I have it set up with a battery isolator for the 2nd battery. I have the little 16 footer in my avatar and i use it for fishing. the only thing taken out of the equation was the switch itself Not sure what was wrong with my buddies, but replacing it solved the problem. took the cables off the switch and connected them together with a bolt and the engine fired right up. In my father's case, he could not get his engine to start on any setting ( bat 1, bat2, or both). My father had one go belly up and a friend just replaced his. I should add here that the trolling motor should be wired directly to the troller battery and the bilge pump to whatever battery you wish.Īnd yet they do fail. The diagram shows an outboard, but pretend it is your 4.3. But for versatility, low cost, and simplicity you cannot beat a dual battery switch. In most cases you don't need both a switch and a VSR. If you are switch-challenged and can't understand this, then a VSR is your best bet. In those cases use BAT 2 (the troller battery). In most cases you can Start, run, charge and park with the switch set to BOTH provided you don't park for hours at a time and/or run the troller on that setting. Whatever battery you have selected will be charged by the engine and will run all the accessories since the accessory feed should be to the COM terminal on the switch. If that battery is dead (doesn't matter why), simply switch to BAT 2. START THE ENGINE? set the switch to BAT 1 (if that is what you want the starting battery to be). It is as simple as asking yourself what battery do i want to do the work at hand. Most folks tend to over-think the switch and get all befuddled about when to use what setting. It is recommended that the ACR be connected directly to your battery positive terminals through appropriately sized fuses. Also ensure positive voltage is not present on the Start Isolation terminal. Either battery can be used for any purpose and either or both batteries can be charged or used for starting purposes depending on the switch setting. Ensure neither battery is below 9.5V for a 12V system or 19V for a 24V system. You do not have to isolate circuits nor dedicate them to a specific battery. ![]() There is nothing more versatile, simple, and trouble-free (no electronics) than a dual battery switch (OFF - 1, BOTH, 2). Re: Do I want a VSR, Isolator, ACR, or Switch. ![]()
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